Out with the New. In with the Old.

7.22.09
Out with the New- In with the Old-

Spanish wines and I have had rough few moths together. On a recent project, I found myself knee deep in Spanish grapes and American Oak. I readily admitted that Spain wasn’t my favorite source vinfera, and sorely, I was only reminded why I hadn’t liked these Iberian wines.

They were oaky, really oaky. Granted, they had bright red fruit. Nice, but not when all covered in wood. The reds were usually heavily tannic, and smelled like a lumber yard. What they lacked in complexity and subtlety, they made up for in alcohol heat. And did I mention how much oak were on these babies? I felt like I was being accosted by alcohol-drenched 2x4. It was rough.

I was quickly losing hope. I learned that I don’t have a problem with Spanish wines, just young new-world styled wines amped up on ripeness and new, heavily-toasted, American oak chips. To contrast this style, there are the soft and rich, amazing complex, and acid driven wines of tradition, exemplified by Rioja’s aged Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva.

Granted, these wines were big on the fruit, and were aged years and years in oak barriques. But they were built to last and built to resolve and built to be enjoyed later; much later. After 4 years in barrel, and another 10 more years in bottle, a wine matures, and adds character. The wine that was an annoying puppy that first chewed up the furniture, and left a hang-over on the rug, mellowed and is showing as charming and comforting as man’s best friend. The tannic structure resolved: once tighter than claret, now softer than most Pinots. The oak has integrated: first covering the fruit in burnt vanilla syrup, now showing complex spice and light cedar tones. And most crucial of all, is the amount of acid that remains in these wines: a lot! They’re refreshing. They’re a beverage meant for food, and they’re just down right delicious.

We just brought in an assortment of examples:
2004 Paramo, Criaza, which we will soon pour by the glass
2001 Arviza, Criaza
1998 Marques de Legarda, Gran Reserva
1995 Migueloa, Gran Reserva, (Yep! A 14 year old wine, still going strong.)

All the wines show true tempranillo character: dried red fruit, cinnamon spice, supple velvet mouth feel, deep complexity with notes of cedar, and dusty dessert earth. The age of these wines clearly shows, they not bright and fresh, but rather exhibit the care and love of someone who sat and care for these wines for years and years. We’re glad to be able to host wines with age, tradition, and true character. Stop in for dinner and share this passion with you.